Time for a new website
Friends!
I’ve got a new website. Please spend your time at http://www.sunisanardone.com
Thanks,
Sunisa
Telling Thailand’s story
Some perspective on the situation in Thailand. Maybe.
Things back home are bad. This is civil unrest and then some. Even the New York Times has managed to cover the violence on the front page, and Americans don’t usually take their morning coffee with a dose of reality on an international scale, but for real sensation (Bombs! Colour wars! An evil businessman out to topple a monarchy!) they make an exception. There’s no end of musing in Western news outlets as to the “real” cause of the instability, as if naming it makes anything better.
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I go about my everyday business here in Melbourne. I ride the new bike, trying not to get lost or run over in the chaos of the CBD. I navigate my way to Fed Square, where we’re at the mercy of the weather down at the food carts, and pray for sunny skies and good business like the rest of the team. I see friends. I grocery shop. Same old, same old.
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And in the midst of this quotidian existence I’m actually living a double-life, because in the back of my mind I wonder if the road that my dad lives on is barricaded with bamboo sticks and burning tires today, or if the Red Shirts are waving his car through. I worry that he can’t get to work, or that he can get to work and something happens to him over there. This nagging sensation of concern isn’t new to any of us, but for the first time in my life I find myself part of a minority of people who are from a disaster zone. I don’t mean natural disaster– I was still Thai when the tsunami hit, and have written and reflected on the international aid effort, etcetera– but this time things are different. This time when people find out that I’m Thai, there’s this look of pity –almost condescension– that can cross their face. I feel like an outsider, someone apologetic for the disgraceful state of their country even while I’m going crazy with worry myself, wondering where it will end and how we will find peace on the other side of such serious turmoil.
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Last night I had to console Ellen, a professor of social enterprise at NYU, because given the security restrictions she has to break it to her class that they won’t be travelling to Doi Tung in Northern Thailand in two weeks, and five of them have just lost their summer internships to circumstances unforeseen. It’s rough. It’s a let-down. It hurts the future of a budding collaboration between NYU and Mae Fah Luang that may yet lead to great, life-changing learnings. So Ellen and I found ourselves looking for the conversion in the situation: what could we gain from this setback?
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There are bleak silver linings to this circumstance. At least Ellen didn’t find herself in Northern Thailand with 11 Americans, unable to get out of the country if the situation escalates. That would be really, really bad.
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But I think there’s a bigger lesson here. I think what bothers most people who come to exclaim over the situation in Thailand is the sense of outrage that such foreign chaos can happen in so familiar a country. In a way, and I know this isn’t exactly politically-correct, we’re used to accounts of despair coming from specific corners of the world. Haiti– Mali– “Africa”, when we use the word to mean a dark continent of things malign, not even bothering to single out specific countries within the land mass. There are places that We in the West, We of the developed world, have resigned ourselves to hearing bad news about. But not Thailand. Not until the last four years, when airports were shut and the sunny Land of Smiles had its reputation rocked for the first time in a very long while.
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The writer Chimamanda Ngozie Adichie has insightful things to say on this subject in her TED talk that you can watch here. She’s from Nigeria, which suffers from that myth of the Dark Continent. And she argues that what her stories about Nigeria, published to such acclaim in the English-speaking world, bring is connection. Reading Adichie, we are educated in more complete experience of a country, one that tells many stories about Nigeria, not just the despairing ones, but the good and common human ones ones too.
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In a similar vein, what I hope these NYU students gain, despite the disappointment of lost experiences in Northern Thailand, is a sense of connection to a country in crisis. Some of them have been to Thailand already. Others will have researched it in preparation for their cancelled visit. I hope that they can’t just read the headlines and glance at the pictures, and turn away with a shrug and a comment that the news is just so depressing these days. They know Thailand, they’re committed to it, and their concern for the country can keep Thailand real and not let it slip into a stereotype of just-another-generic-failure. I know I’ll hold onto everything I know about the country, not just the polarisation between Red and Yellow and Haves and Have-nots that I read about these days. There’s much more to Thailand than that.
Great stories are the ones we return to
The secret of the Great Stories is that they have no secrets. The Great Stories are the ones you have heard and want to hear again. The ones you can enter anywhere and inhabit comfortably. They don’t deceive you with thrills and trick endings. They don’t surprise you with the unforeseen. They are as familiar as the house you live in. Or the smell of your lover’s skin. You know how they end, yet you listen as though you don’t. In the way that although you know that one day you will die, you live as though you won’t. In the Great Stories you know who lives, who dies, who finds love, who doesn’t. And yet you want to know again. That is their mystery and magic.
– Arundhati Roy, The God of Small Things.
What could you live without?
Nick Kristof wrote about a family that sold their house for a smaller one, downsizing and giving half the money they made to a good cause. It came about as an attempt to live authentically to the principles the parents were teaching their children. At first glance the story sounds improbable, giddy, an irresponsible way to live.
A friend brought this article to my attention, asking if “an ideologically altruistic person” such as myself had considered this idea of practicing what I preach, walking the talk, and all those clichés about personal integrity and values.
It’s a tricky question, to probe how much a person has a moral imperative to sacrifice personal comfort in favour of living in a conscious manner. I had a good think about it, but couldn’t come up with an easy formula that defines an acceptable scope between luxury and conscientiousness. It’s a personal decision. It comes down to your priorities and principles. But my favourite part of the article is how the family explains their actions:
“The aim was to encourage people to step off the treadmill of accumulation, to define themselves by what they give as well as by what they possess.”
Whether or not we sacrifice fancy cars, big labels, and eating out, in the wake of this new world order post-GFC, maybe we can all do with an altered perspective on the things we value and the ways we contribute to a better society.
This entry is cross-posted at STREAT’s blog.
Melbourne foodies can do better
Why we need higher standards for dumplings and the Cheap Eats annual publication is a gimmick.
This is a city known for it’s awesome food– and the food is awesome. But accessible it is not, and the popular Cheap Eats guide is not what it claims to be. The publication of the annual Cheap Eats guide has become a how-to of Melbourne gastronomy; those in the know poo-poo the selections and vow to move on to undiscovered territory. Those new to Melbourne (myself) get suckered into buying the publication, mistaking it for the holy grail of eating guides.
For the unsuspecting tourist– be warned. The Cheap Eats guide is more like the Eat Guide– it’s the “make yourself feel better because you think you’re getting good value for your meal” deal. Here is city-sanctioned gluttony, or a way to prop up the hospitality industry. I’m all about eating, and writing about eating, and passing on the recommendations, but what self-respecting food reviewer writes blatant ad copy? The Gold Leaf Eastern gets a one star review, and here is how it’s described:
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Gold leaf has branches everyone (boom boom) and in Burwood the big red doors lead to a cavernous space complete with rotating chandelier and clouds pained on the ceiling. Yes, it’s Chinese dining directed by Ang Lee. But beyond the silk hangings there’s a menu big enough to make sure all diners will find something to their liking. Perhaps a web of noodles hiding in tasty prawns, herby lamb fillets on a bright bed of snowpeas. Crocodile and venison are on offer, though some seafood offerings will take you beyond budget. Despite the big setting, service is attentive and polite.
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This type of review is a little too adoring to be informative. One star, and “all diners will find something to their liking?”
Even normally-reliable food critics as Fitzroyalty and Melbourne Gastronome fall short in the Asian food department. A Thai friend and I were underwhelmed by North East China Family after the juicy pictures and rave reviews provided by both bloggers. The dumplings proved to be thick, doughy, and served only lukewarm in gigantic proportions. I say avoid the place, and take your cue from the East Asian crowd, who do not populate this restaurant.
On the upside, +39 got the award for Best Pizza, and it really is kickin’. So the Guide does have its merits. At the end of the day, the Guide is a good overview for people new to town. It contains all the names of those places that your friends have mentioned but you haven’t jotted down. It’s a helpful starter kit, but nothing I’d purchase year after year, precisely because of a lack of a critical eye– or tongue.
Moon rise over Argentina
“At first I thought I saw the sun setting in the east; I knew where east was, because the sun was just over the horizon when we got there that morning. Then I realized that what I saw was a full moon rising just as the sun was going down. Each of them was standing on its edge, with the most wonderful light between them. It seemed as if you could touch it, as if there were palpable currents of light passing back and forth, or as if there were great taut skeins of light suspended between them.”
– Gilead
preview of STREAT content: Nak Khin
November 2009
It’s Loy Kratong in Thailand, the Lunar New Year celebration that attracts a flock of new tourists to the country to see people give thanks for the plentiful rainfall of the season. This is vital stuff because the country depends on its rain-fed rice crop. But I’m not standing by a waterway watching the beautiful kratongs float by. I’m standing in front of bugs– piles of cockroaches, locusts and other creepy crawlies fried to a crisp and just waiting to be consumed. They are a delectable, spicy, crunchy food option in the carnival atmosphere that surrounds me as I wait at the meet up point for the night. I’m on a preliminary tour hosted by Nak Khin, or Foodies, a new street food tour launching in Bangkok.
If you’re new to Bangkok you might wonder why there is a street food tour on offer. A note of explanation then: Thai culture revolves around food. Thai people are incessant foodies who take pleasure in cooking, seeking out good food, and most of all eating food together. They also go to different places to enjoy specific dishes. Phad Thai has to be eaten at Pratu Peeh (Ghosts Gate) in Old Town. Chinatown is for roast duck. Rice and fish soup happens either at Lumpini Park or further out of the city. To travel to Thailand is to appreciate the culture through food and the traditions associated with it. The best trips to the Kingdom involve inclusion in the social enthusiasm and spirit of foodstuffs. With so much to try (and maybe not a local friend to show you the ropes) a new option that has sprung up for the adventurous traveler is Nak Khin.
It’s a social enterprise that is the brainchild of Vanda Asphanahu and Tuan Vo, two friends who share an enthusiasm for Thai food. They were introduced to the best of street stalls by Thai colleagues and coworkers, but their hearts went out to those of us less fortunate in our acquaintances. They are going to be offering three food tours by neighborhood: in the old part of Bangkok, in Chinatown, and in the Thonglor area. Each tour will be led by a Thai university student (this is the social side of their work) who will bring local knowledge to visitors while practicing their English skills in an informal setting. Tours will stop at four food stalls where people can share mini plates, tapas style, and then move on to a drink stall and a dessert stall. It’s a gourmand’s dream and perfect for anyone willing to get to the real Thai food, which is always on the street.